All About Princess Diana’s Record-Breaking Wedding Dress

NEED TO KNOW

• Princess Diana wore an elegant ivory gown made by Elizabeth and David Emanuel for her wedding to Prince Charles 45 years ago

• The designers created a secret backup dress to keep the original gown’s design a surprise before the wedding

• Diana’s 25-foot train broke records as the longest in royal wedding history

Princess Diana‘s wedding dress marked one of her first major statements as a royal fashion icon.

On July 29, 1981, the then 20-year-old married the future King Charles at London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral, in front of 3,500 guests and hundreds of thousands of people watching from the streets.

Prior to the highly publicized nuptials, fans and media outlets alike tried to figure out what Diana would be wearing for the big day. Her designers even went to great lengths, throwing away fake scraps of fabric in the trash and creating a second dress in case the original got leaked.

In the end, Diana went with the original, custom gown created by Elizabeth and David Emanuel. The voluminous ivory ball gown featured a ruffled neckline and puffed sleeves, with a sparkling veil and a record-breaking 25-foot train.

In 2018, Elizabeth, who now runs her own fashion line, told PEOPLE, “[Diana] was just lovely, really kind of easy going. We never had any special instructions about how to make the wedding dress. That added a bit to the fun of it all, made it bit of an adventure.”

From the gown to the accessories and a secret second look, here are all the details behind Princess Diana’s wedding dress.

The dress featured a record-breaking train

Diana’s gown was truly fit for a princess — and embodied plenty of bridal trends from the early 1980s. The silk taffeta dress was specially woven and dyed ivory and featured a ruffled collar, puffed sleeves, voluminous skirt and, perhaps most notably, a dramatic 25-foot train and 153-yard tulle veil.

The grand train broke records as the longest in royal wedding history. The length was suggested by David in response to the then-reigning length of 20 feet. “Halfway through, we realized, ‘We’re not going to finish this,’ ” he recalled to E! News. “Behind the scenes we’re thinking, ‘Maybe we’ve bitten off too much … keep sewing!’ “

The train was so long that it had to be “folded like a bedsheet” to fit inside the horse-drawn carriage that transported the bride to St. Paul’s Cathedral, resulting in wrinkles.

Princess Diana practiced walking down the aisle with her flower girls

The dress was also rather cumbersome to carry: Prince Charles’ goddaughter India Hicks, who was in charge of guiding it down the aisle with the Queen’s niece Lady Sarah, recalled to Harper’s Bazaar that as Diana entered the cathedral, she told the girls, “Do your best.”

“We knew what that meant: If we pulled too much, straightening the material, her tiara and veil would slip,” Hicks said. “But if we didn’t pull enough, the effect of the train would be lost.”

The girls even practiced with a long dust cloth that they tied to Diana’s waist. “​​She stood patiently as we were shown how to fold and unfold the fabric so it would glide effortlessly behind her,” Hicks wrote.

In addition to including antique lace from Queen Mary as Princess Diana’s “something old,” the wedding dress also featured a blue bow inside the bodice as the bride’s “something blue.” Diana put a hidden good luck charm on her dress, too: an 18-carat gold horseshoe trinket studded with white diamonds.

Princess Diana’s tiara was a family heirloom

Princess Diana wore the Spencer Tiara on her wedding day, a family heirloom. The garland-style crown features diamonds shaped into tulips and stars, interspersed with continuous running scrolls, and was originally gifted to Diana’s grandmother, Lady Cynthia Hamilton, on her wedding day in 1919.

In addition to the tiara and her sapphire engagement ring from Prince Charles, Diana also wore a pair of diamond earrings with a pear-shaped diamond at the center and 50 smaller diamonds surrounding it that belonged to her mother, Frances Shand Kydd, according to Express.

Her veil was stitched with 10,000 micro pearls

Princess Diana’s custom tulle veil was hand-stitched by Peggy Umpleby of embroidery S. Lock (now Hand & Lock). Umpleby was tasked with creating a special visual effect on Diana’s veil using 10,000 micro pearls.

“I asked that the tiny mother of pearl sequins looked as if they were scattered on the tulle. As the sequins were almost transparent, only the sparkles of light would be visible, creating a fairy dust effect,” Elizabeth told Vogue U.K. in 2021. “We used the same sequins on the gown itself, so that it would also sparkle as Diana walked down the aisle.”

Umpleby worked on the tulle piece from her own home. “In truth, she sat at her kitchen table embroidering for two solid weeks,” Hand & Lock in-house fashion historian Robert McCaffrey told the outlet. “The veil was completed, sent to the Emanuels and she returned to work, only to have her colleagues remark on how pale she was despite her two-week ‘holiday.’ “

Princess Diana’s shoes featured an homage to Prince Charles

Diana’s wedding shoes, which featured a heart design on top and were adorned with 542 sequins and 132 pearls, were crafted by cobbler Clive Shilton.

“Her main concern was that she wouldn’t appear taller than Prince Charles, and because she was very tall — 5’10” — the shoes would have to have a low heel,” Shilton told the Daily Mail. The letters “C” and “D” with a heart positioned between them were also painted just below the heel, per British Vogue.

She had five different bodices made for her gown

Diana lost so much weight in the lead-up to her wedding that five different bodices reportedly had to be made for her gown.

“Most brides do lose weight,” Elizabeth told PEOPLE in 2018. “So we weren’t that worried when she did. She ended up with a 23-inch waist from a 26- to 27-inch.”

On the day of the wedding, Princess Diana also spilled perfume on her dress while applying her favorite scent, Quelques Fleurs by Parisian perfume house Houbigant, creating a stain.

Her bridal makeup artist, Barbara Daly, told PEOPLE in 2018 that she instructed Diana to hold that spot on her dress as she was walking, making it look like she was merely holding up her skirt so as to not trip over it.

Princess Diana had an alternate wedding dress on standby

Elizabeth shared that the team had constructed an alternate wedding dress for Princess Diana in case the original design was leaked prior to the wedding.

“At the time we wanted to make absolutely sure that the dress was a surprise,” the designer told PEOPLE. “Had the secret of the real dress got out it’s possible that Diana would actually have worn this one.”

The alternate dress, which was revealed for the first time in 2011, was also an ivory silk taffeta gown with the same ruffles around the neck as the original but without the signature lace. Luckily, the dress was never needed — and it was also never finished.

“We didn’t try it on Diana. We never even discussed it,” Elizabeth said. “We wanted to make sure that we had something there; it was for our own peace of mind, really.”

In August 2023, Elizabeth shared a never-before-seen photo of a woman working on the dress as it lay on a table.

While the designer was able to locate this rare picture, she said the actual gown is missing. “I don’t know where it went. It just disappeared,” she said.

Read the original article on People