Authentic Regional Indian Cuisine Finds a New Home in London’s Blackfriars
London’s vibrant culinary map has expanded with the arrival of Bulbul, an ambitious new restaurant in Blackfriars that promises to shift the narrative around Indian dining in the capital. The venture marks the first international collaboration between two heavyweights of the hospitality world: celebrated chef Rohan D’Souza and award-winning restaurateur Twinkle Keswani.
A Transformation of History
Bulbul is housed within a converted 130-year-old printing press, a space that presented significant architectural challenges during its two-year development. For Ms. Keswani, whose portfolio includes successful concepts across India, Kenya, and the Gulf, the process was one of persistence.
“Converting a 130-year-old printing press into a restaurant has tested us in every possible way,” said Keswani, who was previously honored as Young Restaurateur of the Year. “Seeing the restaurant finally come to life and become part of the neighborhood we now call home makes every bit of it worthwhile.”
Culinary Roots and Personal Journeys
Chef Rohan D’Souza, a former “Chef of the Year” who has previously worked in the UK alongside culinary titans like James Martin and Marco Pierre White, describes the menu as an honest reflection of his extensive travels across the Indian subcontinent.
“I’ve spent much of my career cooking across very different parts of India, from the coastlines of Goa and Kerala to the mountains of Ladakh,” D’Souza explained. “With Bulbul, we aren’t trying to reinvent Indian food; we are sharing a broader, more personal perspective of it. Indian cuisine is far more diverse than most people imagine.”
The menu draws heavily on the “instinct and tradition” the duo encountered while exploring home kitchens, local markets, and traditional toddy shops across India. Highlights include personal favorites such as Dorothy’s Braised Goan Chorizo Sausages, the 48-hour-aged Aunty Marie’s Goan Shrimp Balchao, and a robust Mewari Laal Maas, a slow-braised lamb dish featuring fiery Mathania chillies. A dedicated tandoor section features dishes prepared over live charcoal in a handcrafted clay oven, adding an authentic smoky depth to the offerings.
A Sensory Experience
The interior of Bulbul is as curated as its menu. Designed by Mumbai’s Right Brain Design Studio, the space draws inspiration from the Indian forest. The atmosphere is defined by bold colors, layered textures, and contemporary art, featuring a stunning floral installation by Oorja Studio at the entrance and custom carpets from Jaipur Rugs. Even the staff uniforms, designed by Mumbai fashion house Papa Don’t Preach, contribute to the venue’s distinct aesthetic.
The commitment to regionality extends to the bar, where cocktails push the boundaries of traditional mixology. The Feni and Rice cocktail showcases Goan feni blended with pandan liqueur, while the Sandalwood and Nannari Negroni utilizes nannari-infused gin to create a unique, aromatic profile.
A Rare Addition to London
In an era where few Indian-origin restaurant groups have launched in London since 2022, Bulbul represents a sophisticated, authentic, and timely arrival. For guests seeking an intimate experience, the restaurant also features an eight-seat private dining room.
By blending the heritage of a historic London building with the diverse, soulful flavors of India, Bulbul offers more than just a meal—it offers a journey.
