Chanel, Bulgari and Cartier break the mould with fancy shapes and gems


It might be hip to be square, but the usual shape of watches is, of course, round, which we all recognise as the case-shape of 99 per cent of today’s timepieces. The shape derives from the rounded cogs housed inside and the ease with which a circular case can be sealed against moisture and dust. But if such practicality has long held sway, fresh thinking is coming from some of the stellar names in women’s watches; brands that are determined to break the mould and avoid the same-old, same-old.

Looking at the latest newcomers from Chanel, Bulgari or Van Cleef & Arpels is to see the watch as an unashamed adornment, not an instrument. Their designers show what can be done when one discards the straitjacket of conventional cases and dial layouts, not to mention the usual anchor of leather strap or bracelet. The aim is not so much to bring accuracy to the wrist as to create an object that, despite its modest proportions, delivers an outsize serving of visual delectation.

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