Citizen’s Series 8 watches represent a compelling sweet spot in the brand’s diverse catalog, bridging the gap between their high-end “The Citizen” offerings and more budget-friendly timepieces. Introduced in 2021, the Series 8 collection expanded two years later with the debut of the Series 8 880 GMT models. After a three-year anticipation, the opportunity has finally arisen to delve into these modern travel watches and assess if the initial hype was justified.
Among the initial trio of Series 8 880 GMT models, one particular iteration immediately captured attention. It wasn’t the traditional red-and-blue “Pepsi” or the blue-and-black “Batman” aesthetics, but rather an opulent gold-colored variant featuring a striking champagne-tone dial. The audacious combination of yellow and rose-gold PVD finishes presented a design that was both eccentric and captivating. Beyond this specific model, the overarching sentiment was that Citizen had introduced something truly exceptional. This contemporary and stylish series of GMTs, powered by a “true” GMT caliber, quickly established itself as one of Citizen’s standout achievements, inspiring what felt like love at first sight. Despite the intervening three years witnessing a surge of GMT releases from various brands, both established and emerging, and Citizen itself expanding the Series 8 lineup with additional variations, the question remained: how do these travel watches fare in today’s competitive landscape?
The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT models are housed in a 41mm stainless steel case, boasting a thickness of 13.54mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm. When accounting for the fixed central link, the total length extends to 53.3mm. However, the ingeniously designed lugs and central link slope gracefully, transitioning smoothly into the bracelet, which effectively mitigates any perception of excessive size. Consequently, the watch exhibits a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist.
The case design itself is a testament to modern aesthetics, characterized by its angular form and an intricate interplay of brushed and polished surfaces that amplify its visual drama. The meticulous finishing is particularly noteworthy, with the case sides alone showcasing a sophisticated blend of textures. Small, highly polished sections seamlessly connect with polished chamfers, a detail that underscores the thoughtful engineering behind the case’s execution. A distinctive feature lies in the angular, wider section of the lugs, which evokes a subtle resemblance to the iconic “ears” of a Nautilus. While the GMT’s case embraces a decidedly more contemporary and angular design, it manages to achieve a similar visual impact. This distinctive case design is a significant strength, setting it apart from the myriad of Rolex GMT-Master-inspired designs prevalent in the market.
Few modern GMT watches successfully merge a contemporary aesthetic with the inherent allure of a GMT function. The bidirectional bezel, featuring a 24-hour GMT scale rendered in modern typography, contributes significantly to this unique appeal. For review, two models were examined: a black-dial variant (ref. NB6031-56E) paired with a blue-and-black insert, and a blue-dial version (NB6034-58L) complemented by a blue-and-white insert.
The dials of these watches feature a captivating pattern inspired by the Tokyo skyline. This abstract motif loosely interprets the city’s towering buildings and their numerous windows, seamlessly integrating into the watch’s overall modern aesthetic. Prominent applied markers, positioned within the minute track, are a key design element, with larger luminous markers strategically placed every five minutes. A clever design subtlety is that these luminous minute markers are precisely the same width as the hour markers, creating a visual continuity that makes them appear as extensions. In low-light conditions, they offer dual functionality, serving as both hour and minute indicators. The generous size of these markers is another commendable detail, ensuring visual alignment with the bezel numerals and maintaining harmonious proportions across the dial and bezel.
A date window is situated at the three o’clock position. The black dial variant features a black date disc with white numerals, while the blue dial version sports a white date disc with black numerals. On the lower half of both dials, two lines of white text are present, accompanied by a third line boldly declaring “GMT” in an attention-grabbing orange. This orange hue corresponds to the orange-tipped GMT hand, which is white on the blue-dial version and black on the black-dial version. This deliberate choice by the designers to create contrast on the blue dial and a more blended appearance on the other adds a touch of playful distinction. Finally, the modern hour and minute hands, generously filled with lume, and the sharply defined minute hand, complete the sophisticated and stylish presentation.
At the heart of both timepieces lies the in-house caliber 9054. This automatic GMT movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, houses 24 jewels, and offers a robust 50-hour power reserve. Designed as a “flyer-style” GMT, it allows for independent adjustment of the local hour hand in one-hour increments. Enthusiasts will recognize that the Miyota 9075, a caliber Citizen supplies to external manufacturers, shares a lineage with the 9054. However, the caliber 9054 distinguishes itself with an enhanced power reserve and an accuracy regulated to an average of -10 to +20 seconds per day. This performance is comparable to watches like the Traska Venturer GMT, which utilizes the Miyota 9075. Notably, brands like Nodus go a step further, regulating their 9075-powered Contrail GMTs to an impressive accuracy of +/- 8 seconds per day, setting a benchmark for the Citizen Series 8 880 GMT in terms of competitive accuracy.
The Citizens are paired with a robust three-link bracelet, secured by a fold-over clasp with a convenient push-button release. The brushed bracelet features center links with polished chamfers, and the flat links contribute a subtle shimmer when worn. The bracelet’s build quality is exceptional, and the clasp engages with a reassuringly firm click. A minor drawback, however, is the absence of screw links and a micro-adjustment system within the clasp, which can make precise sizing somewhat less convenient.
Despite the slight challenge in achieving a perfect fit due to the lack of micro-adjustment, the wearing experience of the Citizen Series 8 880 GMT is undeniably enjoyable. Its modern overall presence is a refreshing departure from conventional GMT designs. The thoughtful and harmonious balance of all design elements ensures that the watch feels immediately at home on the wrist.
One characteristic that becomes immediately apparent is the watch’s substantial thickness. At 13.54mm, the case is undeniably chunky, yet this is skillfully balanced by the sturdy bracelet, contributing to a stable feel on the wrist. Visually, the bezel adds a considerable amount of mass to the angular case. While the watch sits comfortably, its presence is certainly felt, a sensation further amplified by its 183-gram weight. Ideally, a slightly thinner profile would enhance the overall wearability, especially considering that some brands employing the Miyota equivalent of the Citizen caliber have achieved slimmer designs. The Nodus Contrail GMT, for instance, measures a mere 11.8mm thick, while both the RZE Contrail GMT and the Traska Venturer GMT come in at 12mm. The difference of 1.5mm can significantly impact the long-term comfort of a watch. Nevertheless, the modern aesthetic and the impeccable build quality of the Series 8 880 GMT ensure a secure and satisfying fit.
Closer inspection of the crown revealed two unexpected characteristics. Firstly, the use of a push-pull crown was a surprise. While not inherently problematic, screw-down crowns are typically found on watches of similar caliber, and a screw-down mechanism would have seamlessly integrated with the case’s design. Upon closer examination, it became evident that the crown is positioned relatively low on the case side, not centrally, which could have provided an opportunity for a recessed design.
However, a deeper dive into the case construction reveals a level of intricacy far greater than initially perceived. The base of the case cleverly connects the lugs and the case back, while the case sides flow organically towards the “end-link” that attaches to the bracelet. This ingenious design creates a captivating array of angles and finishes. Citizen deserves significant commendation for this engineering feat, which results in a series of GMT watches possessing immense character and making them excellent choices for modern travelers.
Priced at €1,225, the Citizen Series 8 880 GMT series offers a highly compelling and affordable option in the GMT market, distinguishing itself with a unique aesthetic. Its primary competition often comes from microbrands such as Nodus, Traska, RZE, and Nezumi, which utilize the Miyota 9075 caliber and are generally priced similarly or slightly lower. However, for those seeking an affordable GMT from a major brand, this series presents an outstanding proposition.
Between the two models reviewed, the blue-and-white version left a particularly strong impression, a matter of personal color preference, though both are equally impressive. Citizen’s current lineup also includes a blue-dial version with a blue-and-red “Pepsi” bezel and an exotic anthracite “gunmetal” variant with gold-colored accents and a silvery dial. This collection comprises four intriguing GMT watches that will hopefully remain a cornerstone of the brand’s offerings for a considerable time. The Series 8, particularly the 880 GMT series, is a prime example of Citizen’s innovative modern design capabilities, showcasing a unique case design and construction that demands attention. The potential of this series is vast, and there is an eager anticipation for Citizen to introduce more color variations, perhaps even reintroducing some of the striking gold versions seen at its inception, alongside fresh stainless steel iterations. This is a series that warrants close observation.
