From Mumbai to Milan: How Chanakya International is Redefining Indian Craftsmanship
For four decades, the silent hands behind some of the world’s most opulent luxury collections have belonged to Indian artisans. While fashion powerhouses like Dior, Fendi, and Prada dominated the headlines, the intricate embroidery, textile manipulation, and heritage techniques were often crafted in the quiet workshops of Mumbai. Now, the legendary atelier Chanakya International is stepping out from the shadows of global fashion, demanding recognition for the generations of artisans who have kept India’s ancient textile legacy alive.
A Legacy of Four Decades
Founded in 1986 by Vinod Shah, a former steel entrepreneur who relocated to Mumbai with a small team of 22 master craftsmen—known as ustads—Chanakya has evolved into a global titan of artisanal excellence. Today, the company boasts a massive workforce of over 1,400 artisans, many of whom are custodians of techniques passed down through 13 generations. With an archive housing 10,000 historical artifacts and over 150,000 material samples, the atelier is a living museum of South Asian heritage.
As the company celebrates its 40th anniversary in 2026, it is shifting its focus from being a behind-the-scenes collaborator to a public advocate for artisan authorship. “My father founded Chanakya with a simple idea: to share the best of Indian craft with the world, while also finding ways to preserve and develop it,” says Creative Director Karishma Swali.
Bringing Tradition to the Public Eye
To mark this milestone, Chanakya has launched a series of high-profile exhibitions across Mumbai. At the historic Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum, the “On the Way” exhibition showcases hand-embroidered maps produced by women from vulnerable communities through the Chanakya School of Craft. Simultaneously, the company headquarters plays host to “The Garden of Gestures,” featuring monumental sculptures of the Saptamatrikas (the seven mother goddesses of Hinduism) constructed from sustainable materials like bamboo and raffia.
These exhibitions serve a dual purpose: they celebrate the technical prowess of 16th-century Mughal chaand jal and rafu-gari (a specialized mending art), while also highlighting the vital importance of crediting the hands that create these works.
The Push for Ethical Collaboration
In recent years, the global fashion industry has faced intense scrutiny regarding the appropriation of traditional Indian crafts. Instances involving labels like Ralph Lauren and Prada, which drew criticism for utilizing Indian designs without proper acknowledgment, have ignited a conversation about the necessity of transparent partnerships.
Chanakya’s model offers a blueprint for change. By openly identifying their artisans—as seen during the 2023 Dior show in Mumbai—the atelier ensures that the prestige of the final product is shared with the creators. “Cultural appreciation and collaboration help craft stay alive,” Swali notes. “When Chanakya’s artisans saw their work on the global stage, it meant a great deal to their families and villages.”
Looking Toward the Future
Beyond international collaborations, Swali is spearheading efforts to institutionalize traditional crafts by seeking partnerships with global universities. Furthermore, the launch of her lifestyle brand, Horus, aims to translate the Indian design language into a standalone global presence.
As Chanakya continues to influence the runway, its true victory lies in the shifting narrative of Indian fashion. By transforming the perception of its artisans from mere laborers to celebrated master craftsmen, the atelier is ensuring that these ancient skills are not just preserved in museums, but continue to evolve in the modern world.
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